How To Replace a Zipper
The need to replace a zipper means you have a broken or damaged fasterner and it has to be the least favorite task for anyone who sews. First you need to take the old zipper out, tidy up the whole sewing area and then sew a new zipper into place.
Replace a Zipper With Different Fastenings
Now here comes the fun part, you will need to determine what type of zipper you have and what sort of general fastening it has. The types are easy to understand and are basically metal or nylon, closed or open (two-way fastening) and they could be either chunky or fine. The types of fastening are described separately below.
How To Replace A Zipper With A Centered Fastening
This type of zipper is quite common and is usually used for dresses, skirts and trousers/pants. What is likely to put people off when coming to replace a zipper on this type of garment is twofold:
- There is usually a waistband with its own fastening to unpick and line-up
- There is not a lot of ‘wriggle room’ at the bottom end of the zipper especially if we are talking about trousers or pants.
This standard zip fastening is placed in the seam with an equal width of seam allowance on each side and is probably the easiest type to replace.
- Firstly, align the zip so the zip is centered from the right side making sure the zipper remains closed.
- Mark and press the seams in their closed position.
- Tack the seams together and press open.
- Align the zipper down the middle of the seam and pin it in place on the wrong side of the fabric.
- Sew the zipper in place using a zipper foot – when you sew across the bottom of the zipper, take extra care not to jar your sewing machine needle on the teeth of the zipper.
- Remove the tacking stitches and press again lightly. To finish off, re-sew the waistband in place (if appropriate) and tidy up the bottom of the zipper with a small piece of lining fabric.
Replacing a Lapped Zipper
Again, this type of fastening has the same problems as the centered zipped but has the additional issue of getting the overlap to line up without either missing the fa
bric altogether or sewing it too tight to allow the zipper past. However, this type of zipper is to some extent a little easier than the centered if you pay good attention to detail.
The Invisible Zipper
These zippers are really delicate and have spiral nylon teeth. They are mostly used on dresses, skirts and side openings for trousers/pants.
Open-Ended Zippers
Used on jackets and anoraks and often have a two-way opening with two pull ta
gs.
One of the hardest garments to eplace a zipper on is anything that has a lining.
January 11, 2012 